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Water world

FATHOM delivers unique, seafood-forward experience
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- Words by Tess Van Straaten Photography by Don Denton

I can smell the woodsy, campfire-like aroma well before I see executive chef Peter Kim coming out of the kitchen at FATHOM—one of Victoria’s most exciting new restaurants. He’s carrying what looks like a large glass ball filled with smoke and a bed of shells, stones and moss cradling my appetizer and invoking the ocean and forests of Vancouver Island.

“It

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